FDA warns brands over mousse and foam sunscreens

The Food and Drug Administration has warned five companies that sell mousse and foam sunscreens, saying the products do not meet its requirements and may not be effective.

In letters issued this month, the agency told Supergoop, K & Care Organics, Vacation Inc., Kalani Sunwear, and Fallien Cosmeceuticals to stop marketing foams and mousses as sunscreens. While the FDA permits a range of formulations — including lotions, sprays, sticks, gels, oils, powders, ointments, and butters — it has not authorized foams or mousses.

“The F.D.A. has a very tight definition of what they allow to be marketed as sunscreens,” said Dr. Ahmad Amin, a dermatologist at Northwestern Medicine. The agency has not received data proving that mousse sunscreens are safe or effective, a spokesman said.

The FDA also posted a warning on X, formerly Twitter, telling consumers to “beware” of the novel products, which have gained popularity online for their whipped-cream-like texture.

Dermatologists say the lack of FDA approval does not necessarily mean foams and mousses are ineffective. This doesn’t necessarily mean foam and mousse sunscreens don’t work,said Dr. Ida Orengo, chair of dermatology at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston.

Some experts caution that the airy formulas may not adhere to skin as well as lotions or sprays, raising concerns about sun protection.Because the products are relatively new, doctors emphasized that they did not know for sure whether they were effective or ineffective. The airy consistency might draw in consumers, said Dr. Megha Tollefson, a dermatologist at the Mayo Clinic. 

Supergoop said in a statement that the letter “is focused on product labeling and has nothing to do with its safety, effectiveness, or formula.” Kalani Sunwear paused U.S. sales of its mousse while reviewing FDA requirements, noting the issue was about classification, not safety. Vacation Inc. said it had “full confidence in the safety, efficacy, and integrity of our product.” The other two companies did not respond.

Dermatologists stressed that the best sunscreen is the one people will consistently use. Mineral-based products, which block ultraviolet rays, act immediately but can leave a white film. Chemical sunscreens absorb radiation and take 20 to 30 minutes to become effective. Experts recommend sunscreens with at least SPF 30, applied generously — about a shot glass’s worth for most adults.

Until the F.D.A. endorses these sunscreens, said Dr. Tollefson,”you don’t want to lull people into a false sense of security,”. But if manufacturers can demonstrate effectiveness, that would be fantastic, to have other options.

Also see: Only one-quarter of sunscreens on store shelves are safe and effective, new report says