No-Knead Bread: The Recipe That Launched a Thousand Loaves

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No-knead bread
No-knead bread

In November 2006, the food world glimpsed the start of a baking revolution. At the test kitchens of Cook’s Illustrated magazine, colleagues crowded around a just-baked loaf of bread. Still steaming and crackling as it cooled, the open, moist crumb and glossy crust were astonishing. This was no-knead bread, a technique recently published by Jim Lahey and Mark Bittman in The New York Times. It would profoundly impact how home bakers saw yeast breads.

“This was the recipe that democratized bread-baking,” says chef Peter Reinhart, author of The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. Both simple and foolproof, no-knead bread yielded superior flavor and texture with minimal effort. The process – mix flour, yeast, salt and water, let rest overnight, shape and bake – became a gateway inspiring more elaborate baked goods.

“It’s the recipe that gets home bakers hooked on baking, leading them to sourdoughs and natural fermentation,” says chef Francisco Migoya. No-knead opened minds to artisanal techniques once deemed daunting.

The method itself is ancient, as Lahey discovered working on farms in Italy and bakeries in Miami. He observed that excessive kneading over-worked doughs. Letting wet doughs rest before minimal shaping produced excellent results. Food writer Bittman gave the technique its catchy “no-knead” name when publishing Lahey’s recipe.

For centuries, professionals knew that time could replace labor. But Lahey and Bittman made no-knead accessible. “I wish it had been me,” Reinhart says. The pairing demystified artisanal bread for average cooks. Overnight, bakers began exploring extended fermentation.

The science behind no-knead rests on gluten. Activating gluten proteins requires hydration and friction. Normally kneading provides this, but enzymes in flour can also weaken gluten strands over several hours. Gases stretch this relaxed gluten during prolonged fermentation, removing kneading. Lahey learned the ideal minimum handling that still yields an airy loaf.

Reinhart says Lahey combined old techniques but Bittman coined the perfect label. Despite initial doubts, Lahey agreed “no-knead” attracted bakers. Soon they shared results with Lahey, who inspired their passion.

In just months, no-knead permeated society. From bloggers to restaurants, everyone experimented with the concept. Books like Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day built upon it. Professional bakers including Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery infused it into sourdoughs. No-knead gave home cooks confidence to bake artisanal loaves.

Migoya believes no-knead’s simplicity was its power. Ken Forkish, author of Flour Water Salt Yeast, concurs it empowered people to attempt more ambitious baking. But professionals knew parts of the method, though struggled to convey its potential before Lahey.

The baking world owes much to no-knead’s popularity. Yet aspects of the original recipe can frustrate. The wet dough tends to spread flat without structure. Through testing, solutions emerged.

Optimizing elasticity and extensibility creates an airy yet shaped loaf. Elasticity provides springy structure while extensibility allows stretching without tearing. High hydration and minimal handling yield maximum extensibility for no-knead dough. But this slack dough requires gentle treatment to hold its shape.

Adding stretches and folds while resting develops structure. Mist loaves with water before folding to reduce sticking. After a few hourly turns, the dough can rise overnight – up to 3 days refrigerated – before baking. A brief final stretch reinforces the “skin.” Careful shaping ensures a smooth, taut membrane around a billowy interior.

Migoya suggests acid like lemon juice or vinegar also strengthens gluten bonds. Test results confirm even drops of acid improve dough quality. The goal is not over-working dough but optimizing its balance between airy, even crumb and sturdy loaf structure.

While no-knead upended assumptions about making bread, the baking step was equally radical. Most critical was popularizing the covered Dutch oven’s steaming effect.

Humidity transfers heat efficiently, spurring rising and flexible gluten formation. But typical ovens rapidly vent steam. Even with pans of water, they cannot replicate a commercial steam oven. Lahey realized the Dutch oven’s sealed heat could.

Preheating the covered pot traps escaping dough moisture. This saturates the oven, producing acrackling crust and an open crumb resembling steam-injected ovens. The Dutch oven spawned smaller cloche-style bakers for artisanal bread.

For easy shaping, the dough can be proofed in a bowl, flipped onto a sheet pan, then covered by another inverted bowl during baking. The sealed moisture works perfectly. Spritzing the bowl provides extra steam. It’s an ideal no-knead method utilizing common kitchen tools.

In the end, efficiencies like no-knead shouldn’t diminish the practice’s artistry. As Lahey observes, ancient Egyptians baked bread in sealed pots. But this recipe made age-old techniques newly accessible. It launched careers, publications, and enduring enthusiasm for homemade bread. And it reminded society that with patience and guidance, a simple ingredient like time can perform wonders. The baking revolution continues.

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